dumaguete series
Visayas
Snorkeling in Apo Island - It's A Wonderful World Down There
Sunday, February 26, 2012Ryan Mach
Memory holds better images than photographs. A poetic, dramatic excuse for someone who has experienced something great but doesn't have a picture to show it. But then again, do all great memories have to be proven through pictures? Can't stories suffice? I may not have a picture to show you what a great experience it was, but you should believe me when I say that it's awesome. Will you just take my word for it, please? Anyway, we all know that it's the memories and remembrances that last -- oh right, photographs can be immortalized these days too.
I didn't have an underwater camera, dammit. I just let the one-of-a-kind experience go down the drain, water if you must. Bummer right?
Here's what I did - on my birthday (that's January of this year) I went on a snorkeling trip with a bunch of divers in Apo Island. This piece of paradise, which means 'grandchild' in Filipino and Bisaya is located off the Southeastern tip of Negros Island in Visayas. It boasts of wonderful rock formations scattered over the terrain, a protected rich marine reserve, and lovely white sands. They say it lists approximately 650 documented underwater species and 400 types of corals.
I didn't have an underwater camera, dammit. I just let the one-of-a-kind experience go down the drain, water if you must. Bummer right?
Here's what I did - on my birthday (that's January of this year) I went on a snorkeling trip with a bunch of divers in Apo Island. This piece of paradise, which means 'grandchild' in Filipino and Bisaya is located off the Southeastern tip of Negros Island in Visayas. It boasts of wonderful rock formations scattered over the terrain, a protected rich marine reserve, and lovely white sands. They say it lists approximately 650 documented underwater species and 400 types of corals.
Accommodations
dumaguete series
Visayas
8 Reasons You Should Stay at Harold's Mansion
Monday, February 20, 2012Ryan Mach1. Great location. Situated right beside the busy stretch of Hibbard Avenue, Harold's Mansion is a 5-minute walk away from Silliman University, the town plaza, Rizal Boulevard and various restaurants. There are a lot of tricycles passing by so going anywhere in the city is easier.
dumaguete series
negros oriental
Visayas
A Failed Attempt to See Casaroro Falls - No Regrets!
Monday, January 30, 2012Ryan Mach
Valencia is one of the closest towns in Dumaguete so getting there wouldn't be a problem.
I've actually mentioned that a hundred times in my previous posts.
I know, but I have a point to make. There's an imaginary guarantee that since it's close to the city, getting to Casaroro Falls shouldn't be a problem. Especially if you were promised by the tricycle driver that it's not too far from Forest Camp, where I spent the first 3 hours of my day. There's a much shorter route, I was told, but it's currently impassable because the road was badly hit by Typhoon Sendong.
The road where the cement ends is the start of a 5-kilometer hike to the jump-off point to the waterfall. It's a narrow dirt road (like a dry river littered with small rocks) that's yet to be constructed. Only habal-habal can pass there. The slope isn't very different to the road I used to walk on when I was young (we live uphill in the province) so I thought the trek's pretty much manageable. I just had lunch too. Still, I found myself sweating and panting.
So how was Casaroro?
I wasn't able to see it.
I paid Php150 just to see it but I didn't actually see it. Rip off?
Definitely not. And I have no regrets. Let me set the record straight though that such amount was only for the tricycle. There's a 10 peso entrance fee in Casaroro Falls which I didn't pay because there's no one there to collect it. When I came back after surviving the 600+ steps, I understood why no payment was required.
The trek down was a memorable experience in itself. Not to mention very challenging and exhausting. Imagine going down a stair with 367 steps and going up again using the same stair. One wrong step and you'll find yourself falling down the cliff. I'm glad I did it because it somehow prepared me for my first mountain climb in Mt. Pico de Loro a week after.
Why wasn't I able to see it?
I was just about 200 meters away from the waterfall when I decided to back out. I could already make out the crashing sound the falls made. The foreign guy ahead of me was going back. He told me it's quite difficult to get there. He's a tall dude, possibly more fit than I was. If he weren't able to do it, how could I? Mang Enie, my tour guide/ tricycle driver was able to make it though. He's a good driver but not a very tour guide, left me on my own.
Big rocks were splayed in the river bed. Rocks that were not originally there in the first place. Mang Enie, was a bit surprised to see them there. "It's the typhoon (Sendong) that dislodged these rocks from the cliffs," he said, pointing at the high walls above.
There used to be a concrete bridge that connected the steel stairs to the viewing deck in the falls. You could still make out the bridge under the boulders. Judging from the damage the typhoon caused, it'll probably take time before the bridge way will be reconstructed. Until then, anyone who hopes to see the falls will have to brave the difficult trek. The experience will be surely much sweeter and rewarding because not everyone can do it.
I've actually mentioned that a hundred times in my previous posts.
I know, but I have a point to make. There's an imaginary guarantee that since it's close to the city, getting to Casaroro Falls shouldn't be a problem. Especially if you were promised by the tricycle driver that it's not too far from Forest Camp, where I spent the first 3 hours of my day. There's a much shorter route, I was told, but it's currently impassable because the road was badly hit by Typhoon Sendong.
The road where the cement ends is the start of a 5-kilometer hike to the jump-off point to the waterfall. It's a narrow dirt road (like a dry river littered with small rocks) that's yet to be constructed. Only habal-habal can pass there. The slope isn't very different to the road I used to walk on when I was young (we live uphill in the province) so I thought the trek's pretty much manageable. I just had lunch too. Still, I found myself sweating and panting.
So how was Casaroro?
I wasn't able to see it.
I paid Php150 just to see it but I didn't actually see it. Rip off?
Definitely not. And I have no regrets. Let me set the record straight though that such amount was only for the tricycle. There's a 10 peso entrance fee in Casaroro Falls which I didn't pay because there's no one there to collect it. When I came back after surviving the 600+ steps, I understood why no payment was required.
![]() |
| The descent starts here... |
The trek down was a memorable experience in itself. Not to mention very challenging and exhausting. Imagine going down a stair with 367 steps and going up again using the same stair. One wrong step and you'll find yourself falling down the cliff. I'm glad I did it because it somehow prepared me for my first mountain climb in Mt. Pico de Loro a week after.
![]() |
| Apologies for the shaky shot. I was apparently shaking... |
Why wasn't I able to see it?
I was just about 200 meters away from the waterfall when I decided to back out. I could already make out the crashing sound the falls made. The foreign guy ahead of me was going back. He told me it's quite difficult to get there. He's a tall dude, possibly more fit than I was. If he weren't able to do it, how could I? Mang Enie, my tour guide/ tricycle driver was able to make it though. He's a good driver but not a very tour guide, left me on my own.
![]() |
| He didn't make it either.. |
Big rocks were splayed in the river bed. Rocks that were not originally there in the first place. Mang Enie, was a bit surprised to see them there. "It's the typhoon (Sendong) that dislodged these rocks from the cliffs," he said, pointing at the high walls above.
![]() |
| Bridge badly damaged. |
There used to be a concrete bridge that connected the steel stairs to the viewing deck in the falls. You could still make out the bridge under the boulders. Judging from the damage the typhoon caused, it'll probably take time before the bridge way will be reconstructed. Until then, anyone who hopes to see the falls will have to brave the difficult trek. The experience will be surely much sweeter and rewarding because not everyone can do it.
![]() |
| Rock wall
This post is part of my Solo Backpacking Adventure in Dumaguete.
|
dumaguete series
negros oriental
solo travel
Alone in Forest Camp
Thursday, January 26, 2012Ryan Mach
Forest Camp is nestled up the highlands of Valencia, one of three interior towns of Negros Oriental. A few minutes' drive from the bustling city of Dumaguete, Forest Camp is literally a camp in the forest, with brooks, trees and lush topography in the background. Getting there is relatively easy (finding this place is not at all difficult because of its popularity among the Dumagueteños). You can simply take a jeepney in Dumaguete bound for Valencia and get off at the town market where tricycles for hire and habal-habal (local motorcycles) can be found. They normally charge a minimum fee of Php40.00-Php100.00. Alternatively, you can rent a habal-habal and drive to the camp by yourself.
It would have been fun to drive a habal-habal but I can only maneuver a bicycle. Besides, tricycle – I surmised after seeing a foreign guy back at the guest house sporting bruises and big open wounds on his legs (habal-habal accident) – was a safer option. Although the road to Forest Camp is cemented, the terrain is a bit steep and there are parts that were severely damaged by typhoon Sendong.
Backpacking
dumaguete series
negros oriental
Solo Backpacking in Dumaguete - A Travel Guide
Tuesday, January 24, 2012Ryan Mach
I mostly learned about Dumaguete through literature - Bobby Villalis' Elegies from Another Book and Ian Casocot's The Hero of the Snore Tango, both are works of fiction that feature the quaint town of Dumaguete as the setting. The boulevard, the university, the old mansions and houses. They're all described as quaint and sleepy and dramatic. And I have a penchant for anything dramatic. So I scheduled my visit on a dramatic time of the year - my birthday.
Celebrating my birthday in a city where I don't know a single soul was a fun and liberating experience, to say the least. The places I saw, the people I met, the food I ate- all make up for a memorable entry on my travel journal.
Celebrating my birthday in a city where I don't know a single soul was a fun and liberating experience, to say the least. The places I saw, the people I met, the food I ate- all make up for a memorable entry on my travel journal.
Dumaguete is not only a quaint town, it's also charming and bustling.
Most of the interesting sights can be found at the neighboring towns, which are a short ride from the city so getting around is perfectly doable. The locals are very friendly so you don't have to worry about getting lost.
What you need is an affordable room with clean bed in a safe guest house because there's so much to do in and outside the city during the day.
What you need is an affordable room with clean bed in a safe guest house because there's so much to do in and outside the city during the day.
Here's my 4-day Dumaguete DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Itinerary
DAY 1
From the airport, take a few steps to the highway where easy rides (multicabs) ply by. There were tricycles inside the airport but they charged tourist rates (Php100.00-Php200.00) so unless you're willing to pay that much for a short ride downtown, best to take a much cheaper option. Easy ride fee is only Php8.00.
Tell the driver to drop you off at Real Street where you can take a tricycle (Php8.00) to Harold's Mansion, a 4-storey guest house that has dorm-type accommodations at Hibbard Avenue. Settle in, freshen up and head out to Hayahay along Rizal Boulevard for dinner. It's about a few blocks from the hotel. Best to take a trike.
At Hayahay, you can enjoy good food (mostly seafood), listen to good music and feel the refreshing sea breeze. Take a trike back to the guest house and have a good night sleep.
Total Amount Spent for Day 1: Php489.00
Tell the driver to drop you off at Real Street where you can take a tricycle (Php8.00) to Harold's Mansion, a 4-storey guest house that has dorm-type accommodations at Hibbard Avenue. Settle in, freshen up and head out to Hayahay along Rizal Boulevard for dinner. It's about a few blocks from the hotel. Best to take a trike.
At Hayahay, you can enjoy good food (mostly seafood), listen to good music and feel the refreshing sea breeze. Take a trike back to the guest house and have a good night sleep.
Total Amount Spent for Day 1: Php489.00
DAY 2
Visit a few sights outside Dumaguete such as the Twin Lakes in Sibulan, Forest Camp and Casaroro Falls in Valencia. I originally wanted to go to Sibulan first but the jeepney driver in the terminal dissuaded me from going (because it's quite far and I'd end up spending a lot of money for habal-habal since I was alone).
Get up early and have a free bread toast and coffee in the cafeteria. Take a trike and tell the driver to take you to the terminal where there are jeepneys bound for Valencia.
Valencia is a small and sleepy town that's a short 10-minute drive from Dumaguete City. Jeepneys continuously ply the Dumaguete-Valencia route all day (fare is Php12.00). At Valencia, you can either rent a habal-habal to get to Forest Camp or Casaroro Falls. Alternatively, you can hire a tricycle for a minimal fee of Php80.00 round-trip. If you intend to do a side trip to Casaroro Falls, you will pay an additional Php220.00. The driver can wait up for you while you enjoy swimming in Forest Camp then he'll take you to Casaroro Falls.
Take a refreshing dip in the man-made pools with cool natural water in Forest Camp and order grilled seafood or native chicken tinola (generous serving!) for lunch.Get up early and have a free bread toast and coffee in the cafeteria. Take a trike and tell the driver to take you to the terminal where there are jeepneys bound for Valencia.
Valencia is a small and sleepy town that's a short 10-minute drive from Dumaguete City. Jeepneys continuously ply the Dumaguete-Valencia route all day (fare is Php12.00). At Valencia, you can either rent a habal-habal to get to Forest Camp or Casaroro Falls. Alternatively, you can hire a tricycle for a minimal fee of Php80.00 round-trip. If you intend to do a side trip to Casaroro Falls, you will pay an additional Php220.00. The driver can wait up for you while you enjoy swimming in Forest Camp then he'll take you to Casaroro Falls.
Rest for a little while and head over to Casaroro Falls, which is a few kilometers from Forest Camp. If you're taking a trike, prepare yourself for a 10-15 minute walk up the dirt road because tricycles can only go as far as the cemented road. Make sure to bring bottled water as the hike alone to the entry point is dehydrating.
Head back to the town plaza and take a jeepney bound for Dumaguete. Take a rest at the guest house. Take an afternoon stroll along Hibbard Avenue where Silliman University is located. It's a popular landmark among photography buffs and tourists. You can get a visitor's pass from the guard at the entrance. You'll probably get hungry after a stroll and a photo-shoot. Take a few steps to Rizal Boulevard and try their street food. You can spend the rest of the afternoon lazying around.
For dinner, you can go to Jo's Chicken Inato or Blue Monkey Grill where they serve cheap beer (Php25.00). You can socialize at the guest house's cafeteria or the rooftop with foreign travelers.
Total Amount Spent for Day 2: Php1104.00
DAY 3
Get up early and catch the sunrise at the Rizal Boulevard. Take your free breakfast at the cafeteria. If you're not a bread person, you can order heavy meals such as tapsilog and bangsilog (Php110.00).
Set aside the third day for the exciting day dive/snorkel trip in Apo Island. Harold's Mansion organizes a daily trip to the island - 1,000.00 for snorkeling and 3,800 for diving. Be sure to make an advance reservation as it's usually fully booked.
Set aside the third day for the exciting day dive/snorkel trip in Apo Island. Harold's Mansion organizes a daily trip to the island - 1,000.00 for snorkeling and 3,800 for diving. Be sure to make an advance reservation as it's usually fully booked.
Enjoy the rich marine life in Apo sanctuary, where you can see various sea animals - turtles, grouper, barracuda, nemo-like fishes, soft and hard corals and many more. Make sure to bring your underwater camera so you can share the amazing experience to your friends.
Total Amount Spent for Day 3: Php1,536.00
DAY 4
If your flight back to Manila is scheduled in the afternoon, you can spend the first half of the day exploring the city. Go to the plaza after having breakfast at the guest house and check out the oldest stone church in Negros and the ancient belfry nearby.
Buy pasalubong at the few local shops along Hibbard Avenue. Try the famous silvanas at Sans Rival. Their pastries and cakes are ideal pasalubong for your friends.
Buy pasalubong at the few local shops along Hibbard Avenue. Try the famous silvanas at Sans Rival. Their pastries and cakes are ideal pasalubong for your friends.
Pack up, make sure you don't forget anything and check out. To get to the airport, you can take a trike to the jeepney terminal and ride a jeepney bound for Sibulan (Php12.00). Ask the driver to drop you off at the airport. Alternatively, you can hire a trike directly to the airport (Php80.00).
Total Amount Spent for Day 4: Php633.00
Special thanks to Jhyng for letting me borrow her DSLR and to Karen for booking me the round-trip flight. You guys rock!
Backpacking
dumaguete series
negros oriental
Interesting People I Met in Dumaguete
Monday, January 23, 2012Ryan Mach
Solo travel inevitably makes you sociable. Unless you're a hardcore snob, you'll be compelled, one way or another, to talk to someone : the local who will give you directions, the fellow passenger on your trip to a nearby town, your roommates at the guest house. It can start with small talk and may favorably end in a mutual exchange of email address.
This is the beauty of solo travel - in the absence of a companion, you'll eventually make a few connections, and in most cases, gain friends.
Meeting people in Dumaguete was probably at the bottom of my to-do list. In my past travels, I didn't succeed much in that area. This may be due to the fact that all of my trips before have seldom allowed me to talk to other people. I let my friends do the talking. And I didn't hang out in the hotel lobby and start making conversations with some random tourist/traveler while my travel companions were asleep or having fun inside the room.
The fact that I traveled alone in Dumaguete pretty much guaranteed the possibility that yes, I'd be alone in my adventure but somehow, especially once the sad realities of solo backpacking began to surface, I started to yearn for some company. There's fleeting sadness in seeing a group of travelers enjoying themselves at the same activity you're engaging. The trick to battling self-pity is by constantly reminding myself that I chose to travel solo, and that being alone is not tantamount to solitude.
Sentimentality aside, I met a few interesting and lovely people who have made my trip enjoyable and memorable. Here they are in no particular order:
JOSH [Vancouver, Canada] Political Science student
Josh (left) with Ryan on their last day in Dumaguete
Josh is possibly the most friendly guy among my roommates. He's got an amicable persona that simply radiates off his face deflating any negative impressions that may be wrongly hurled against him. He greets strangers and acknowledges their presence with a courteous and genuine smile. His resemblance to Josh Duhamel adds to his already charismatic appeal.



























